December 08, 2005
Cambodia: War and Baguettes Continue (Day 71)
(I'd love to hear your thoughts on what I've written because there are some serious issues presented in this blog. Please email me if you've got a lot to say. Discussions are what change the world, not silent acceptance.)
Today is my 3rd day in Siem Reap, my 8th day in Cambodia and the 71st day of my travels. Can I say "time flies!"??!
So far I have thoroughly enjoyed Cambodia. I do miss Vietnam a bit, the place was fantastic. My last two days were spent in Saigon, which surprisingly, I noticed had changed. The area I spent the most time during my first visit was completely different. It had literally been "cleaned up". There were no more street kids, no more vendors, only expensive hotels, and the market where I'd haggled for dvds for hours now looks like a mall back home. I guess in some ways it's good because it shows the economy is booming, but at the same time you can't help but think it's lost a bit of it's character.
Jantonia (Antonia, but we call her "Jantonia" now because Julia and I have "j" names and we felt it would be better if she fit in) and I arrived in Cambodia on the 1st of the month after a 15 hour commute from Saigon. At one point we were on a boat on the Mekong river and it started to pour. It seems waterproofing was not a concern during the boats construction, so I spent the following hour being dripped on, or maybe I should call it leaked on. It was, to say the least, the most frustrating journey yet.
When we arrived in Phnom Phen, we found a cute guesthouse in the backpacker potsmoking district. It was almost too chill, but it had the most amazing coconut shakes and it was a good place to relax after the hussle and bussle of Vietnam.
At the "Killing Fields" there is a tower of skulls (almost 9000) as part of a huge monument. There are hundreds of mass graves, including 43 that have yet to be uncovered. While walking through the fields our guide pointed out a jaw bone protruding from the dirt.
I have found that I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with the kids around the temples. They're so cute and friendly, yet they can turn on you so quickly. The bottom line is always the almighty dollar. I've noticed that some of them take a great interest in my skin color. They put their arms next to mine and say: "look, same same". I can't help but smile because I realize that in some ways I might be a bit of hope. They see westerners as the rich successful people of the world, even though most of us have done nothing but been born on the other side of an invisible line. So, even though I don't want them to see me as different, the fact that they look at me, see a "rich" westerner and realize that I look like them, may make them feel a little bit better about themselves in a world that says lighter is better.
Today is my 3rd day in Siem Reap, my 8th day in Cambodia and the 71st day of my travels. Can I say "time flies!"??!
So far I have thoroughly enjoyed Cambodia. I do miss Vietnam a bit, the place was fantastic. My last two days were spent in Saigon, which surprisingly, I noticed had changed. The area I spent the most time during my first visit was completely different. It had literally been "cleaned up". There were no more street kids, no more vendors, only expensive hotels, and the market where I'd haggled for dvds for hours now looks like a mall back home. I guess in some ways it's good because it shows the economy is booming, but at the same time you can't help but think it's lost a bit of it's character.
Jantonia (Antonia, but we call her "Jantonia" now because Julia and I have "j" names and we felt it would be better if she fit in) and I arrived in Cambodia on the 1st of the month after a 15 hour commute from Saigon. At one point we were on a boat on the Mekong river and it started to pour. It seems waterproofing was not a concern during the boats construction, so I spent the following hour being dripped on, or maybe I should call it leaked on. It was, to say the least, the most frustrating journey yet.
When we arrived in Phnom Phen, we found a cute guesthouse in the backpacker potsmoking district. It was almost too chill, but it had the most amazing coconut shakes and it was a good place to relax after the hussle and bussle of Vietnam.
On our 3rd day (we were really productive the first two days) we went to the most famous of the "Killing Fields" located about 15km outside of the city, and then to the Tuol
Sleng Genocide Museum (S21) which was originally a high school but then during Pol Pots regime became a prison. By the end of the day Jantonia was mentally drained and visibly upset at times, yet I was fine. We have basically been dealing with issues of war for the past month and a half, starting in Vietnam with the Vietnam War (aka: The American War) and now continuing into Cambodia with Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. How is it possible that I have heard and seen evidence of so many horrific events, yet haven't shed a tear? I know it's not because I'm insensitive. I have had many "awakenings" in my life which have left me practically in mourning for those involved. Yet in Vietnam and Cambodia, nothing.
Looking back, I realized that while in Vietnam, inspite of (or dispite, not sure which just yet) the anti-American sentiment present during most discussions of the war, I continued to feel for the American soldiers forced to fight. I may just have been being defensive because everyone I spoke to blamed the Americans, but I don't believe that is the majority of my reasoning. Our soldiers committed some absolutely atroshish acts, but in some instances I cannot entirely blame them. War does things to a man that I cannot, and hopefully, will not ever understand. And, not only was the Vietnam/American war a war, but it was an extremely brutal disorienting war. Our soldiers were fighting in conditions they were not trained to handle, and fighting an enemy who was basically invisible. It was unconventional in every sense of the word. The Vietcong hid among the people, and to me that was a blatant disregard for the well being of their civilian population. In some ways I believe this had some affect on the crazed mentality, shared by many U.S. soldiers, that entire villages and their inhabitants must be eliminated. Please, do not misunderstand me. I do not in any way intend to say that I think the war crimes we commited were justified. The use of agent orange, the rapes and massacres were disgusting and our acknowledgment of them is vital in our efforts to avoid a reoccurance. But, I can't help but think that in a war where you don't know who your enemy is, how do you know who to fight?
There was a quote at the War Remenants Museum (previously the Anti-American War Museum) and it was the only thing that truely left an impact on me:
The US expeditionary forces have gone as far as two consider the Vietnamese people as a low-class creature and that the fact of killing them didn't constitute a crime - just like the spraying of DDT poisonous substance to destroy the insects. They can't enjoy any right whatsoever, even the right of the ownership and right to live. All they can have: their body and life also belong to the ownership of the Americans, who can do all they wanted... The Americans didn't think that their counter-parts were persons who can think and enjoy any rights as other people did have.
Sleng Genocide Museum (S21) which was originally a high school but then during Pol Pots regime became a prison. By the end of the day Jantonia was mentally drained and visibly upset at times, yet I was fine. We have basically been dealing with issues of war for the past month and a half, starting in Vietnam with the Vietnam War (aka: The American War) and now continuing into Cambodia with Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. How is it possible that I have heard and seen evidence of so many horrific events, yet haven't shed a tear? I know it's not because I'm insensitive. I have had many "awakenings" in my life which have left me practically in mourning for those involved. Yet in Vietnam and Cambodia, nothing.Looking back, I realized that while in Vietnam, inspite of (or dispite, not sure which just yet) the anti-American sentiment present during most discussions of the war, I continued to feel for the American soldiers forced to fight. I may just have been being defensive because everyone I spoke to blamed the Americans, but I don't believe that is the majority of my reasoning. Our soldiers committed some absolutely atroshish acts, but in some instances I cannot entirely blame them. War does things to a man that I cannot, and hopefully, will not ever understand. And, not only was the Vietnam/American war a war, but it was an extremely brutal disorienting war. Our soldiers were fighting in conditions they were not trained to handle, and fighting an enemy who was basically invisible. It was unconventional in every sense of the word. The Vietcong hid among the people, and to me that was a blatant disregard for the well being of their civilian population. In some ways I believe this had some affect on the crazed mentality, shared by many U.S. soldiers, that entire villages and their inhabitants must be eliminated. Please, do not misunderstand me. I do not in any way intend to say that I think the war crimes we commited were justified. The use of agent orange, the rapes and massacres were disgusting and our acknowledgment of them is vital in our efforts to avoid a reoccurance. But, I can't help but think that in a war where you don't know who your enemy is, how do you know who to fight?
There was a quote at the War Remenants Museum (previously the Anti-American War Museum) and it was the only thing that truely left an impact on me:
The US expeditionary forces have gone as far as two consider the Vietnamese people as a low-class creature and that the fact of killing them didn't constitute a crime - just like the spraying of DDT poisonous substance to destroy the insects. They can't enjoy any right whatsoever, even the right of the ownership and right to live. All they can have: their body and life also belong to the ownership of the Americans, who can do all they wanted... The Americans didn't think that their counter-parts were persons who can think and enjoy any rights as other people did have.
Richard Hammer (1970)
If these rights were allowed, would that be war?
At the "Killing Fields" there is a tower of skulls (almost 9000) as part of a huge monument. There are hundreds of mass graves, including 43 that have yet to be uncovered. While walking through the fields our guide pointed out a jaw bone protruding from the dirt.How do you register moments like this?
Some of us shed tears I guess, but I don't think I'm capable of responding emotionally because I'm too busy thinking about all the issues places like the "Killing Fields", the War Remenants Museum, and S21 raise.
While walking around the "Killing Fields" I couldn't help but think it was a somewhat disrespectful way to raise the world's awareness. Why the hell is that jaw bone still there?!! Out of respect for the person it once belonged to, dig it up out of the pathway that hundreds of tourists tred upon each day!! After such horrific deaths, these people deserve a peaceful resting place. Their skulls should not be on display, their bones should not be left for me to step on, and none of them should continue to lay in a mass grave. I understand that maybe the Cambodian government has chosen to raise awareness through shock, that they may not have the money to exhume the rest of the victims, and that I might have a different perspective when it comes to death. But, I just find it all a bit too voyaristic.
* * *
How do you continue a blog after a discussion like that? Astrics are gonna have to do the trick.
Well, inspite of (this time I'm sure it's inspite) all the heartache and war this country has seen, the people of Cambodia continue to smile. The country is making an effort to change it's image. When I arrived, I was amazed at how modern Phnom Phen was. I really didn't know what to expect before coming here. I thought there would be nothing but tin shacks and motorbikes. I mean the country doesn't have 1 ATM! But when I arrived, I was astonished. They have gas stations with mini marts! I haven't seen one of those since home!
Anyways, we left Phen on the 5th and arrived in Siem Reap 8 hours later to be greeted by a bazillion tuk tuk drivers. It was the most taxing experience I've had yet. They completely surround you and are literally yelling in your ear, pushing and pulling you. They're so close you can smell their breath. It's worse than anywhere I've been before, even India.
So, for the past two days we've been touring around Angkor Wat and it's simply amazing. The carvings and the size of the ruins are incredible.
I will give one bit of advice to future visitors:
Don't get caught in the dark of Angkor Wat with a bike with no light and a chain that keeps falling off. If you do, make sure to be lucky enough to have the captain of the Siem Reap police department stop, put your bike in his car, and give you a ride to a tuk tuk while lighting the rocky ass dirt road for your other 2 lightless friends.
Things always work out for the best...
I have found that I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with the kids around the temples. They're so cute and friendly, yet they can turn on you so quickly. The bottom line is always the almighty dollar. I've noticed that some of them take a great interest in my skin color. They put their arms next to mine and say: "look, same same". I can't help but smile because I realize that in some ways I might be a bit of hope. They see westerners as the rich successful people of the world, even though most of us have done nothing but been born on the other side of an invisible line. So, even though I don't want them to see me as different, the fact that they look at me, see a "rich" westerner and realize that I look like them, may make them feel a little bit better about themselves in a world that says lighter is better.Whew! God so many things to say :P
Yeah, so things have been going well. We've been biking along the breezy Cambodian countryside seeing temples and hanging out with all the crazy westerners at night. We even had a picnic of fruit, bread and CHEESE at one of the temples yesterday. Things could not be better.
Here's a quick Jasmine point:
The other night there were these 2 Canadians I found extremely annoying and loud, and I could hardly tell they weren't American myself. It got me thinking that maybe, just maybe, every once in a while, we United Statesians (I prefer this over "American", and I can explain why more indepth at some point) may be getting a bad rap as a result of Canadians.
End point.
I did meet a cool Canadian that said something I appreciated after 2 1/2 months of traveling with Brits. A couple of days before Jantonia had described me as "abrupt", in terms of my manners, and I think everyone would agree that I am polite damnit! Anyways, I was a bit sore about it. But Eric (the cool Canadian) said that he thinks that even though we often get a bad rap, Americans are actually really polite. I would definitely agree. We just have a tendency to be loud... or should I call it "abrupt"?
Enough with the rants. Jantonia left today with a the cool Canadian and an Auzzie to head to Thailand. Julia and I are leaving tomorrow. We were going to fly from Phen, but it's a bit too expensive and they want proof of a flight out of Thailand, which I don't have. So we decided to hire a taxi that would take us to the border and catch a bus to Bangkok. And to make a good day even better, we just found 2 random guys to share the taxi with us, so now it's even cheaper.
And now it gets a bit sad. We're planning to meet up with Jantonia in Bangkok, but then our little trio will end. Jantonia's going to Australia, while Julia and I stay in Thailand but go our separate ways. Plus we're leaving this beautiful country so soon. 10 days is not enough. I will definitely have to come back. So sad, but I guess it's a new chapter in the book. The book I'm sure will never have a title because my life just cannot be labeled :P
Until Thailand... Orkun (Khmer for thanks) for reading.
Comments:
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I really think you should have named this section War of the Baguettes! Just a bit more flashy...you know grabs the potential reader who will forgive you even if its not true it at least there is some mention of war or sex. In this case war did nicely.
brian "hooray for laderhosen" bort
brian "hooray for laderhosen" bort
# posted by 
: 11:00 PM
: 11:00 PM
Jasmine: I'm only getting your blog in edit mode now. Nice to hear about your experiences. Aunty Joy
Hey Jasmine,
I'll be writing you an email soon, but I know it's always fun to get comments on your blog, so I thought I'd drop a line here too. Sounds like you are having an absolutely AMAZING time. Tom and I are hot on your trail - details in my email! Be safe and let's get in touch!
-Jessi
I'll be writing you an email soon, but I know it's always fun to get comments on your blog, so I thought I'd drop a line here too. Sounds like you are having an absolutely AMAZING time. Tom and I are hot on your trail - details in my email! Be safe and let's get in touch!
-Jessi
1st off the tower of skulls...
it certainly is a different way of commemorating people's lives. but even then i dont know if that's what they were even trying to do, it seems like the Cambodian governement was trying to glorify themselves, not necessarily an individual's life which to me is sad. we are lucky to live in a country where we are given a choice of how we want to be buried or cremated.
Although, i wonder how much good it has done as far as being an eye-opening experience for people to see. Something like that is the closest you could come to really understanding the devastation of war. You can read all you want about it or go watch some war movie but going and walking on the grounds of a place such as the "Killing Fields"- you just can't get any closer than if you went back in time. As with most things i am indifferent about it. it is sad that all those individuals are just carelessly piled on top on one another and put on display but what is the body without the soul in it. Arent our bodies just little genetic costumes that suit up our souls while we are here? Humans have been parading around the planet and interminglinly with each other for so long that i dont know how people can really believe that our race or ethnic backround is even that separated or different. no matter how far i went back into my "family tree" how would i really ever know that one of my ancestors hooked up with some Italian guy. Shit i wouldn't put it past her, who would know?
Anyways, all i am trying to say is that we arent all not so different but its the suit of our bodies that we use to judge this idea of being different when really the only thing that is separating us from other another is each other.
I dont have to go around the world to meet someone that has different morals and beliefs than me. I could go walk into church this Sunday (for the 1st time in my life) and go tap on some old guy's shoulder and have a flippin field day.
ok so i haven't even started to talk about any of the other things i wanted to say and this is already so long. so i will make it short.
"Annoying Canadians" I was JUST talking with someone about that the other day...cant remember who but nonetheless i completely agree with you. When i was in Panama i went out to a bar on a not so touristy island and i was with about a hand full of people (one of which was a HOT German) and at the bar was a big group of VERY loud Candadians. I mean they were up on the table dancing just getting drunk, being loud and not giving a rats ass about anything else other than having a good time. The bar was a local residential bar and at first there was this very obviously line of separation between the locals and the tourists but soon the locals just started laughing at the Candadians in a more humble way than with anamosity. Anyway by the end of the night ALL of us were having a good time together.
Still i agree, how would most others from non-English speaking countries know the difference between an Austrailian, to Canadian, to Britain, to the United States? Yeah well they dont and the Americans get all the flak about it. Shit havent people caught on that for some reason a lot of Americans dont travel farther than the Carribbean or Europe? I mean Hellooooo. Which just reminded me of a little funny "Hello" side story...ok you know those T-shirts from Italy that say "Ciao" on them (i think kate has one)? well, i was waking through this little touristy mall that's underneath the train station in Florence and i saw this shirt on a manequin that said "Hello" on it. needless to say it was pretty funny to see and i just dont know why the Italians weren't wearing them at least to make fun of the tourists that wear them;) shit i wanted to buy one just for that reason haha
ok i need to end this.
caio caio
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it certainly is a different way of commemorating people's lives. but even then i dont know if that's what they were even trying to do, it seems like the Cambodian governement was trying to glorify themselves, not necessarily an individual's life which to me is sad. we are lucky to live in a country where we are given a choice of how we want to be buried or cremated.
Although, i wonder how much good it has done as far as being an eye-opening experience for people to see. Something like that is the closest you could come to really understanding the devastation of war. You can read all you want about it or go watch some war movie but going and walking on the grounds of a place such as the "Killing Fields"- you just can't get any closer than if you went back in time. As with most things i am indifferent about it. it is sad that all those individuals are just carelessly piled on top on one another and put on display but what is the body without the soul in it. Arent our bodies just little genetic costumes that suit up our souls while we are here? Humans have been parading around the planet and interminglinly with each other for so long that i dont know how people can really believe that our race or ethnic backround is even that separated or different. no matter how far i went back into my "family tree" how would i really ever know that one of my ancestors hooked up with some Italian guy. Shit i wouldn't put it past her, who would know?
Anyways, all i am trying to say is that we arent all not so different but its the suit of our bodies that we use to judge this idea of being different when really the only thing that is separating us from other another is each other.
I dont have to go around the world to meet someone that has different morals and beliefs than me. I could go walk into church this Sunday (for the 1st time in my life) and go tap on some old guy's shoulder and have a flippin field day.
ok so i haven't even started to talk about any of the other things i wanted to say and this is already so long. so i will make it short.
"Annoying Canadians" I was JUST talking with someone about that the other day...cant remember who but nonetheless i completely agree with you. When i was in Panama i went out to a bar on a not so touristy island and i was with about a hand full of people (one of which was a HOT German) and at the bar was a big group of VERY loud Candadians. I mean they were up on the table dancing just getting drunk, being loud and not giving a rats ass about anything else other than having a good time. The bar was a local residential bar and at first there was this very obviously line of separation between the locals and the tourists but soon the locals just started laughing at the Candadians in a more humble way than with anamosity. Anyway by the end of the night ALL of us were having a good time together.
Still i agree, how would most others from non-English speaking countries know the difference between an Austrailian, to Canadian, to Britain, to the United States? Yeah well they dont and the Americans get all the flak about it. Shit havent people caught on that for some reason a lot of Americans dont travel farther than the Carribbean or Europe? I mean Hellooooo. Which just reminded me of a little funny "Hello" side story...ok you know those T-shirts from Italy that say "Ciao" on them (i think kate has one)? well, i was waking through this little touristy mall that's underneath the train station in Florence and i saw this shirt on a manequin that said "Hello" on it. needless to say it was pretty funny to see and i just dont know why the Italians weren't wearing them at least to make fun of the tourists that wear them;) shit i wanted to buy one just for that reason haha
ok i need to end this.
caio caio
# posted by : 10:07 AM
: 10:07 AM << Home
